Shikoku

Ehime 愛媛県

One of Japan's oldest hot springs, a novel that made its castle town famous, and a bridge-hopping cycling route ranked among the best in the world.

Capital

Matsuyama

Population

1,334,841

2020 census

Population trend

Decreasing

Area

5,676 km²

Population density

235 / km²

Share of Japan's population1.1% of Japan
Share of Japan's land area1.5% of Japan

Compared against Japan's 2020 census population of 126,146,099 and total land area of 377,975 km².

Nature7/10
Subculture3/10
Ehime highlightedMap data © contributors, CC BY 4.0

Often described as

Ehime carries a literary, unhurried self-image partly shaped by Natsume Soseki's beloved novel 'Botchan,' set in and gently mocking Matsuyama, where Soseki himself taught English before becoming one of Japan's most important modern novelists.

If it were in Europe or the US

Valencia, SpainA region whose identity runs partly through citrus — Ehime is one of Japan's leading mikan orange producers, much as Valencia's name is closely tied to Spanish citrus growing.

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History

Ehime occupies Shikoku’s northwestern corner, and its best-known attractions span an unusually wide range — an ancient hot spring, a century-old novel, and a 21st-century cycling route that draws an entirely different kind of visitor than either.

Ehime and the wider world

The Shimanami Kaido is Ehime’s clearest modern connection to the international travel world: since opening in 2006 for cyclists (the final link in a longer expressway that had been built in stages since the 1970s), the route’s combination of dedicated cycling lanes, six distinct bridge crossings, and small-island scenery has drawn repeated recognition from international cycling publications and outlets like CNN as one of the best cycling routes anywhere, pulling in cycling tourists from well beyond Japan specifically to ride it.

Matsuyama’s literary connection runs in a different direction: Natsume Soseki, who would go on to become one of modern Japan’s most important novelists (his face appeared on the 1,000-yen note for two decades), spent a year teaching English in Matsuyama in the late 1890s. He turned the experience into “Botchan,” a wry, still widely read 1906 novel about a brash young Tokyo teacher clashing with rural Matsuyama — the book is now so closely associated with the city that a Botchan-branded steam locomotive still runs through central Matsuyama as a tourist attraction.

Neighbors: Ehime and the rest of Shikoku

Ehime shares the Shikoku Henro pilgrimage circuit with its three island neighbors, and its Shimanami Kaido physically ties it to Hiroshima’s Onomichi across the water — one of the few direct physical links between Shikoku and Honshu that doesn’t run through Kagawa.

Getting there and getting around

Matsuyama Airport has domestic flights from major cities; Matsuyama Station is reached from Okayama by limited express train in about 2.5-3 hours. A rental bicycle (with drop-off points along the route) is the standard way to do the Shimanami Kaido.

Where to go

The historic wooden Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse

Dogo Onsen

One of Japan's oldest hot springs, with a distinctive wooden bathhouse (Dogo Onsen Honkan) built in 1894 and designated an Important Cultural Property.

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The original keep tower of Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle

One of only twelve Japanese castles with an original keep, on a hilltop in central Matsuyama, reachable by ropeway or chairlift.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY-SA 4.0 — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

A cyclist on the Shimanami Kaido bikeway

Shimanami Kaido

A roughly 70-km cycling and driving route connecting Ehime to Hiroshima's Onomichi across the Seto Inland Sea via six bridges, internationally regarded as one of the world's great cycling routes.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY-SA 2.0 — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

A hall at Ishite-ji Temple, the 51st stop on the Shikoku pilgrimage

Ishite-ji Temple

Temple 51 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage circuit, notable for a dark stone passage pilgrims walk through as part of the visit.

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