Tohoku

Miyagi 宮城県

Tohoku's biggest city and regional capital, built by a one-eyed samurai lord who once sent a delegation all the way to Rome.

Capital

Sendai

Population

2,301,996

2020 census

Population trend

Stable

Area

7,282 km²

Population density

316 / km²

Share of Japan's population1.8% of Japan
Share of Japan's land area1.9% of Japan

Compared against Japan's 2020 census population of 126,146,099 and total land area of 377,975 km².

Nature6/10
Subculture3/10
Miyagi highlightedMap data © contributors, CC BY 4.0

Often described as

Sendai is nicknamed 'Mori no Miyako' (City of Trees) and is generally seen, even by Tohoku standards, as an easygoing, tree-lined regional capital rather than a hard-charging metropolis — while still functioning as the biggest city for hundreds of kilometers in any direction.

If it were in Europe or the US

Denver, USAThe clear, dominant regional hub city for a large, mostly rural surrounding area, without being the national capital — the place everything in the wider region routes through.

Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links (Amazon Associates, Japan Trend Shop, and tour/activity booking partners). We may earn a commission if you make a purchase or booking through them, at no extra cost to you.

History

Sendai exists because of one man: Date Masamune, a regional lord who lost an eye to smallpox as a child (earning him the nickname “Dokuganryu,” the One-Eyed Dragon) and built Sendai as his castle town in the early 1600s after backing the winning side in the wars that founded the Tokugawa shogunate. Everything about how Miyagi presents itself today — the tree cover, the castle ruins, the mausoleum, the annual Date-themed festivals — traces back to him.

Miyagi and the wider world

Date Masamune’s most surprising legacy is diplomatic: in 1613, he sent a delegation led by his retainer Hasekura Tsunenaga across the Pacific to Mexico, then on to Spain and finally Rome, where Hasekura met Pope Paul V — making it Japan’s first direct diplomatic mission to Europe, seven years before Sakoku (the closed-country policy) would have made such a voyage impossible. The mission sought a trade and missionary agreement with Spain; it largely failed, and by the time Hasekura returned to Japan seven years later, the political climate toward Christianity had turned hostile. Hasekura’s own descendants and several crew members are believed to have stayed behind in Spain, and a small Spanish town, Coria del Rio, still has residents with the surname Japon today, reportedly tracing back to them.

Neighbors: Miyagi and the rest of Tohoku

Sendai is unambiguously Tohoku’s biggest city and functions as its de facto regional capital — the hub other Tohoku prefectures (Iwate, Akita, Yamagata) route through for anything that needs a bigger city than their own capitals offer, closer in relationship to Fukuoka-and-Kyushu than to any classic rivalry.

Getting there and getting around

Sendai Station is a Tohoku Shinkansen stop, about 1.5 hours from Tokyo, and Sendai Airport has domestic and limited international connections. Matsushima and Yamadera are both easy half-day trips from Sendai by local train.

Where to go

Pine-covered small islands scattered across Matsushima Bay

Matsushima Bay

A bay dotted with roughly 260 small pine-covered islands, considered one of Japan's three most scenic views since the Edo period; best seen by short sightseeing boat.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

The ornately decorated Zuihoden mausoleum of Date Masamune in Sendai

Zuihoden

Date Masamune's ornately decorated mausoleum in Sendai, rebuilt after wartime destruction based on the original's surviving blueprints.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY 3.0 — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

The equestrian statue of Date Masamune at the Sendai Castle ruins

Sendai Castle Ruins (Aoba Castle)

Little remains of the original castle beyond stone walls, but the hilltop site has sweeping views over Sendai and a statue of Date Masamune on horseback.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY-SA 4.0 — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

A building at Rinno-ji Temple in Sendai

Rinno-ji Temple Garden

A Zen garden and temple in central Sendai built by Date Masamune's family, with a landscaped pond garden that changes character through the seasons.

Wikimedia Commons, licensed CC BY-SA 3.0 — re-confirm author/license on the file page before publishing

Book an experience

Local specialties

Made or set in Miyagi

Municipalities in Miyagi